This week we have a new article from Twickenham wine expert Lisa Johnston, who talks all things Italian wine with a focus on the appassimento method of making wine, where grapes are dried before pressing to create a rich, voluptuous style of wine that is becoming more popular... She also tells us how to snag an Italian bargain!

Italy has an incredible diversity of wines, as can only be expected with native grapes numbering in the thousands - albeit the Italian government has only authorised around 350 of those.

For wine lovers with a sense of discovery, there is something for everyone in Italy.

From great fizz to sweet delights and everything in between. And so, it goes without saying that with a rich and very long vinous history, the most popular wines of the moment are just a fraction of what Italy has to offer.

The more recent Italian wine arrivals on our shores are not necessarily from 'new' wine regions. The rich pickings include wines from regions that have benefited from investment in recent years which allows them to showcase their region's best.

Alternatively, they might be regions already known for high quality that have reinvigorated techniques that might have nearly been forgotten in other areas.

One of these techniques is 'appassimento'.

Appassimento simply refers to the process of using a portion of dried grapes when making the wine. Juicy ripe grapes are carefully harvested and left to shrivel. Even a short period of drying before being pressed adds fullness to the body of wine, as well as more complex aromas and flavours. The rich and deeply-coloured Amarone wines of Valpolicella are made using this process.

The rise in appassimento wines means these wines are now easy to find from other regions of Italy too. There is also an added bonus as they often represent terrific value.

Furthermore, you might find white wines as well as red. Just look for the word 'appassimento' featured on the label.

Although, some regions have their own specific versions of the technique. In Tuscany, for instance, the process is called Governo all' uso Toscano and only a set portion of dried grapes can be used.

Here are some suggestions, just in case you need a place to start:

The traditional is new again

Piccini Strapazzamento Governo all' uso Toscano

Governo is the Tuscan version of appassimento. A small portion of the harvest is put aside to later be added to the fermenting fresh grapes. This adds smoothness and fullness to the wine. The Strapazzamento is a very pretty wine with a floral perfume and some lushly ripe cherry fruit. There is also a deeper chocolate and nutmeg spice. It is expressive while maintaining a more elegant fruit weight. A crowd pleaser, for sure. (£8)

Where to buy it: Costco

Don't forget whites

Pasqua Romeo & Juliet's Wall Bianco

The name Romeo & Juliet's Wall gives you a huge clue that this is from around Verona.

It is, of course, a Veneto white wine made solely from Garganega grapes. The entire harvest of these grapes were dried in a drying loft for a short time to concentrate the sugars and characters. Some of the wine was also matured in oak to enhance the spice and nut character.

This has a rich dollop of sweetness without crossing into 'off dry' territory and it has plenty of fleshy fruit to balance that. A gentle creaminess underlines citrus and apricot fruit that finishes with a ginger savoury spice flourish. (£12)

Where to buy it: Majestic

An Organic option

Terre di Faiano Nero d'Avola Sicilia DOP

Nero d'Avola is one of Sicily's popular red grape varieties. Being a wine from older vines, you can expect that it already has a soft generosity. It has a sense of richness and full body thanks to 20% of the harvest picked and dried for up to 15 days before being added to the freshly picked grapes. Bright, ripe cherry and blackberry fruit has been embellished with some earthiness, sage and a light sprinkle of cinnamon. (£10)

Where to buy it: Waitrose

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